SON Lights

• Schmidt E6
• Lumotec Fly
• Lumotec
• Lumotec Oval Plus
• Brake Lights!!
• Lumotec Plus??
• Compare them

Other Switched
Lights

• Lumotec Oval Plus Senso
• Lumotec N
• Lumotec N Plus

Unswitched Lights

• Lumotec & Lumotec Plus
• Lumotec Oval, Oval Plus
  & Oval Plus 12
• BiSy FL-SR
• Schmidt E6-OS
• Compare them

Bulbs & Spare Parts

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Mounting

Wiring Instructions

Taillights

Battery Powered Lights

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Schmidt Hubs

Shimano DH-3N70 Hubs

Shimano NX-30 Hubs

The Perfect Headlight

Because drag is so low with the SON dynohub, and because LEDs work for many thousands of hours without failing (unlike the 100 hour run times with halogen bulbs) some riders like to use LED headlights without a switch and just have the light on all the time. But the difference in price between switched vs unswitched LED headlights is small.

Naturally, lights without switches are less expensive than those with switches. The Lumotec is available unswitched or with a plastic slider switch and lighter wiring for just a bit more than the standard unswitched Lumotec. It is also available with coaxial cable and high quality stainless steel switch, as modified by Schmidt. But the best quality switch is in the Schmidt E6 headlight, which has a magnetic reed type switch.

The Shimano Nexus hub has a separate optional switch available and can be used with any unswitched headlights I sell. The discontinued BiSy headlight had no switch. The Schmidt E6 is available switched and unswitched, E6-OS. The E6 bayonets apart for easy bulb replacement. The Lumotecs also bayonet apart, (but be careful of the little tab, it can break) and the Lumotec Ovals have a slider latch to open the light. LED headlights do not require bulb replacement.

All 6 volt dynamo halogen headlights I sell use the same bulbs; either the 2.4 watt or 3 watt bulb. If used with a .6 watt taillight, use the 2.4 watt bulb. If you prefer a battery taillight, use the 3 watt bulb in the headlight. All halogen bulb headlights must draw 3 watts, either with the 3 watt bulb, or a .6 watt taillight and a 2.4 watt halogen he3adlight bulb. There's no perceptible difference in brightness between the 2.4 watt and 3 watt bulbs when new. All halogen bulbs get dim with use.

About LEDs & Taillights

While Busch & Müller LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight attached, the LED will run hotter without a taillight attached, and when it runs hotter, it will not last as long. It will still last many thousands of hours, but it will run many thousands more if it doesn't get quite so hot. Also, when the LED isn't as hot, it is more efficient, and in some circumstances, perhaps even a bit brighter. (The brightness issue is something I've picked up by reading about these headlights. It's not something I've tested myself, so please don't hit me with questions about how much brighter, etc this or that light will or might be in this or that circumstance. In other words, don't ask me about it, because this is all I know about it.) My advice is simply this, if you wish to use an LED type headlight, I recommend that you also use a wired taillight along with it. If you simply can't cope, just couldn't even imagine getting out of bed in the morning if you must have a wire running past your saddle, either get an LED headlight and accept shorter life, or get a halogen headlight. The E6 is every bit as wonderful as it has ever been.

This applies to the Lumotec IQ Fly series (six models) and the DLumotec Topal (four models) and DLumotec Oval series headlights (six models).

Orientation

None of these headlights should be positioned upside down. In the case of the Busch&Müller headlights, that can allow water to collect in the housing, shorting out your lights in the rain when you need them more than ever. But more importantly, by rotating the lens upside down, the brightest part of the beam hits the road closer to you, making for a light that is next to useless for clearly seeing the road ahead for any meaningful distance. While the Schmidt E6 is impervious to water penetration, placing it upside down is particularly silly, since you've spent so much money for a carefully refined beam pattern, and by reversing it, you make the light beam worse than the cheapest Chinese flashlight.

All headlights (and taillights) are weatherproof, not waterproof. If you place them in a bucket of water, they won't work. But they'll work all day in the rain, unless you have them upside down.

All dynamo powered headlights mount in the same fashion. At the bottom rear of the light is a horizontal hole, perpendicular to the light beam, and 6mm in diameter. I have various mounts to allow placing the headlight in many locations on your bike. Most lights can be placed directly above the front brake. All except the "Topal" series headlights can be mounted on either fork blade below the brake, or on the handlebar, or an accessory bar attached to the handlebar. The B&M Topal series headlights can only mount directly above the brake at the fork crown, and only on bikes with fenders since the bottom is exposed to spray from below. The Schmidt E6 can mount using any handlebar mount to either a handlebar, or to the side of a fork. The E6 should only be mounted above the brake at the fork crown if you have V brakes, since it's only with V brakes that I have a strong enough fork crown mount for the relatively heavy Schmidt E6.

Connections

Metric spade connectors attach the wiring to most of these headlights. These metric connectors are virtually impossible to find in the United States, except by bicycle shops that sell these lights. I stock them by the hundreds. So if you have any concerns, buy some extra connectors when you purchase your system. They are very inexpensive. If you're buying these lights from your local bike shop, be sure to ask them to get some extra connectors.

Some headlights are hard wired for attachment to the Schmidt SON dynohub. All have connectors to attach optional taillights. We stock lots of wiring and connectors to allow many configurations for your bike. We don't have a package as such, since everyone's bike is a bit different. We prefer to sell you exactly what you need to give you the best lighting for your needs.

Primary? Secondary? Huh?

Most headlights can act as Primary headlights in a two headlight system powered by the Schmidt SON dynohub. The Primary and Secondary are wired in series to the dynohub. There are two exceptions. The Lumotec IQ Fly headlights cannot be used with the E6 Secondary headlight. And the Inolights also cannot be used with a Secondary. However, the Inolights can be used with another Primary E6 headlight, or with another Inolight, if the two are wired in parallel. And of course all headlights, except Secondary headlights, work with a wired taillight.

Only lights specifically wired and switched to work as a Secondary headlight can be used as a Secondary headlight. A regular E6 headlight is a Primary headlight, for example. It can be alone as the sole headlight, with or without a wired taillight. And it can be used along with an E6 Secondary wired in series in a two headlight system. A taillight would be wired in parallel to the Primary headlight, being switched on and off by the headlight's switch.

But the Primary E6, or any other primary headlight cannot become a Secondary headlight. We have a special version of the E6, the E6 Secondary or E6-Z, that works as a Secondary headlight along with a Primary headlight, like an E6, a Lumotec, or a DLumotec Oval N Plus. There are many others. But there is only one Secondary, the E6-Z Secondary. It cannot be converted into a Primary, and a Primary cannot be converted to a Secondary.

There is now only one headlight designated as a Secondary headlight, the Schmidt E6 Secondary or E6-Z. The Lumotec Secondary is no longer made. The E6 Secondary looks the same as a Primary E6 headlight, the difference is in the internal wiring of the switch, the connectors at the end of the 80cm wire, and the absence of a taillight connector on the E6-Z. The E6 Secondary headlight will work with any Primary headlight when attached to a Son dynohub, with the exception of the Inoled headlight. The Inoled works alone, with or without a taillight. Except for the Inoleds and the Lumotec IQ Fly, mix and match various Primary headlights as you please with the E6 Secondary headlight.

All Primary headlights can have a taillight attached. The taillights come in a variety of styles, to fit either a rear rack, or a rear fender, and can be adapted to attach to a rear cantilever stud or even some seat post binder bolts. But all of the taillights are .6 watt. If you use them with a primary headlight using a halogen bulb, the bulb must be a 2.4 watt bulb. If you don't use a taillight, the bulb must be a 3 watt bulb. If your headlight is an LED, then there is nothing to change in the headlight, but of course the LED will last longer if you keep a taillight connected.

Miscellaneous

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight, but with most models the LED will last longer if you use a wired taillight. The LED will get hotter if there is no taillight attached. Sad but true. :-( Oh Wait! Good for taillight sales! ;-) This is important when using any B&M headlight with DLumotec in the name. It's a minor issue when using any of the Lumotec IQ Fly headlights. In other words, while the IQ Fly runs hotter without a wired taillight, it's by a smaller amount than with the DLumotec. It's no issue at all when using the Schmidt Edelux.

However, I still believe that whenever possible, you ought to take advantage of the "always available" nature of the dynamo hub's power, and use a wired taillight, even with the Edelux.

Busch & Müller headlights with the designation "Plus", have a standlight. The standlight is a very small low powered LED that lights up when you stop and remains lit for up to seven minutes, depending on how long you have been riding before you stopped. These standlight LEDs should not be confused with an LED headlight, which uses an LED as the source of light when you are moving. A Lumotec Oval Plus has both a halogen bulb for when you're moving, and a tiny LED for the standlight when you're stopped.

Some LED headlights use a separate LED as their standlight, (the DLumotec Topal, for example) and others just power the single large LED at a lower level when stopped to act as the standlight (the DLumotec Oval, Lumotec IQ Fly and Inolight do this).

Don't these dynamo lights Blow Up?

If you do a search on the internet for bicycle dynamo lighting systems, you will undoubtedly come across warnings about lights blowing out if you ride your bike too fast. This is true of systems designed back in the 1920s, and used on bikes such as Raleigh three speeds up through the early 1980s. These were very crude systems by today's standards. While you can still buy cheaply made dynamo lights that will blow bulbs on a downhill run, none of the systems I sell are so poorly made that you have to concern yourself with this. Without exception, every headlight I sell for use with either a hub dynamo or sidewall dynamo incorporates circuitry to prevent the overvoltage of the bulb. You have absolutely nothing to worry about, so long as you install the system properly. That means using a 3 watt bulb in halogen headlights when used without a wired taillight, and always using a wired taillight with an LED headlight, unless you're willing to accept a shortened useful life of your headlight.

LED Headlights and Wireless Computers

Some wireless computers don't work with some dynamo powered LED headlights, and even with some battery powered LED headlights. For example, the DLumotec series lights from Busch & Müller seem to cause some wireless computers to stop working. If you find your computer doesn't work when you turn on your lights, my advice is to get a less expensive wired computer. We've never had a problem with any wired computer that uses a magnet attached to the spokes. And remember, wireless computers consume batteries. So if you don't want to contribute to the local landfill quite so much, either get a wired computer, or just ride without one. I'd rather look at the scenery, frankly, than a computer screen while I'm riding.

Headlights for Schmidt Nabendynamo (SON)
(with high quality switches)

Schmidt E6

The Schmidt E6 headlight uses the optics of the BiSy FL headlight but adds an extremely reliable magnetic reed switch and wiring for easy connection to the SON hub. The E6 is also designed to make it much easier to replace a burned out bulb in the dark.

The E6 beam is dim at the bottom, where it hits the road close to you, and gets progressively brighter towards the top. At the top of the beam, it's extremely bright, to light up the road over 100 feet in front of you. This makes a fast downhill much safer than with other lights. Even battery lights with 20 or more watts can't put as much light at a distance as the E6 can since the optics don't concentrate the light so effectively at the top of the beam. Above the top of the beam is a sharp horizontal cut-off, keeping focused light out of the eyes of oncoming drivers, exactly like a high quality automotive low beam. With this beam pattern, your light is focused on the road ahead of you, not into oncoming drivers eyes or up in the trees where it does you no good. Oncoming drivers still see you very well since the bulb is so bright. For more on beam patterns, click here. $ 118.00 for the Primary version with the standard 2.4 watt bulb. See the Schmidt Ordering page for all of the E6 headlight options and prices.

Choose a 50cm wire with connectors fitted if you'll be mounting the light on the right fork blade. Also available is a 120cm wire with loose ends for other mounting positions. I also have a version of the E6 wired as a secondary headlight. So if you choose the E6 as your primary and want the best Secondary, you can have the E6 for both. The current E6 looks a bit different. New pictures soon.

In this photo you can see the reed switch at the top, the wire to connect to the SON hub, and the additional small connector for an optional taillight. Current production E6 lenses no longer have the clear ring around the perimeter.

If you want to wire the E6 headlight yourself and make your own switch, the E6 is now available without switch and hard wiring for a lower price. But I can't help you with designing a switch box. You'll have to do that yourself. Most people will want the pre-wired versions.

The Schmidt E6 headlight does not have a built-in reflector nor is there a standlight option with the E6. The E6 exists to put the maximum amount of light on the road just where you need it most. If you want a light for while you're waiting at an intersection, I'd suggest a LED battery powered light such as the Busch&Müller F-Lite. It clamps directly to your handlebar. It's not at all sufficient for riding, but it adds a considerable degree of safety while you're waiting for a traffic light to change.

Schmidt Edelux

We're taking orders for these now. As soon as they arrive, they go right out. The sooner you order one, the sooner you'll have one. Our next shipment is expected in August.

The Edelux is Wilfried Schmidt's new LED headlight. It's compatible with all modern 6 volt hub dynamos. This headlight is almost entirely hand made by Schmidt, with the exception of the wonderful IQ-TEC mirror, which is made by Busch & Müller, and of course the three watt LED itself. Since heat is the big enemy of LED headlights, the LED in the Edelux is mounted on a large and heavy copper heat sink. This keeps the LED cool, and results in a very low operating temperature, and a very bright headlight, the brightest dynamo headlight I have ever seen. Like the E6, it uses a magnetic reed switch for high reliability. The switch has On, Off and Senso positions. On Senso, the light switches itself on or off as conditions require. The standlight remains on for up to four minutes after you stop, depending on how long you've been riding. The Edelux does not have a built in reflector.

You may use a taillight with the Edelux, and it will be switched on or off by the headlight. The headlight is unaffected by the presence of the taillight; it's performance is the same in every respect with or without a taillight attached. For safety's sake however, I strongly recommend the use of a reliable wired taillight with the Edelux.

For the Edelux PDF brochure, with all the specifications and a beam comparison with the E6, click here. The graph in the PDF, showing the relative brightness of the Edelux vs other headlights, was made before Inoled introduced the latest version of the Inolight Extreme, and before the new Supernova was introduced. The Inolight Extreme and the Supernova E3 are similar in brightness to the Edelux, by my measurements. Schmidt has yet to test the Extreme. I'll have more info about the comparison between these two new lights soon.

Two Edelux headlights can be used together, powered by the SON dynohub. However, the cyclist should think long and hard before ordering a second Edelux. One of these headlights is already extremely bright, making it difficult for me to see a significant advantage to having a second. And the wiring for a second Edelux gets a bit complicated. Below 25kph two wired in parallel will be brighter than a single Edelux. But at speeds over 25kph, series wiring will produce the most light. Wiring in parallel is easy; just run both lights to the hub directly and you're done. Each light can be switched on independently. But to wire them in series requires a "Secondary" version, with a switch that shorts the Secondary to switch it off. That's something the user will have to rig for himself, at least for the time being. While I can't say it will never happen, there are no plans to make a Secondary Edelux at this time. And the reason for that is that since the Edelux is so bright, it hardly seems like running two makes much sense. The best argument I can see for a second Edelux is to make the beam even wider than it is, and it's now twice as wide as the E6 halogen headlight.

The light is available in polished aluminum finish, as shown, and in black anodized. And both versions are available with either a 60cm wire with attached connectors, or a 140cm wire with the connectors loose. We are happy to install the connectors to the long wire version using my special crimping tool, which does a better job than you can do using regular pliers. You'll just need to loop up the excess wire.

The current price estimate is $ 191.00 However, since the US Dollar is dropping in value, the actual price you will be charged will be determined when each shipment arrives. This will probably be the case until we have these lights in our regular stock, perhaps next year.

Supernova E3

The new Supernova E3 headlight is very bright and has a big round beam, like a automotive high beam. The manufacturing quality is unsurpased. These are available with three different mounts. The mount pictured here is for the fork crown and works with cantilever brakes and disc brakes. It may work with some V brakes, depending on the height of the fork crown relative to the brake mounts. It's also available with a handlebar mount or with a mount to work with various Busch & Müller 10mm mounts to work with a 6mm bolt, just like all of the other lights on this page.

You can run a single E3 or two. And in September we'll also have a shaped beam, like an automotive low beam version of the E3. With both beams available, you can switch between a "high beam" or a "low beam" or both at the same time.

I'll have photos with the handlebar and 10mm mounts soon.

E3 with crown mount, as shown above, E161-L: $ 215.00 Supernova calls this their "Lefty" mount.

E3 with handlebar mount, E161-B: $ 215.00

E3 with 10mm mount, E161-S: $ 200.00

Supernova also makes a very small but extremely bright taillight that works with the E3.

The taillight mounts to our Tubus racks and to many other racks using various adapters we stock. The mount holes are 50mm apart. When used with the E3 headlight, the taillight has a standlight function for up to 2 minutes.

E161-T taillight: $ 70.00

Busch & Müller Lumotec Fly

Shown here with a mount for a suspension fork, the Lumotec Fly is Busch & Müller's best halogen headlight. The body is more robust than the Lumotec or Oval Plus, and the vertical beam adjustment is easily done without tools. The optics are improved, providing a wider beam with a sharper top edge, allowing the rider to aim the beam a bit further up the road without focusing light into the eyes of oncoming drivers. The lens spreads the light wider on the road surface, opening up the path ahead. But the high concentration of the beam at its top edge still helps you see further down the road. The more robust body resists damage when mounted at the fork crown and the fork is turned too far, pushing the light against the frame. While the Lumotec Fly can still be damaged if you push it against the frame too hard, it will take more abuse than any other B&M headlight.

The Fly is compatible with the Lumotec Secondary and Schmidt E6-Z Secondary, and works with any six volt hub dynamo. Four versions are available for hub dynamos. The "N" version has a two position "On - Off" switch. The "Senso" version has a three position "On - Off - Auto" switch. Auto uses a light sensor to detect when it's dark and switches the light on and off automatically. Both the N and Senso versions are available with or without a standlight, designated with the name "Plus". The standlight is a tiny LED powered by a capacitor. The capacitor is charged while you are riding, and powers the LED for six or seven minutes after you stop, providing a small light to help others see that you're there. The Fly is also available without any switch for use with sidewall dynamos.

Many mounts are available for the Lumotec Fly, enabling secure mounting at the fork crown, on either side of the fork, or on the handlebar. See the light mounts page. The Fly uses the same bulbs as the other Lumotecs and Schmidt E6. If used with a wired taillight, it takes a 2.4 watt bulb. If used with a taillight, it uses a 3 watt bulb. And as with all other B&M headlights, the bulb it uses is unaffected by whether or not you have a Secondary headlight attached, and you can use a Secondary whether or not you have a taillight attached to the Fly.

Lumotec-N Fly, part # B&M174N-04 (On-Off switch, no standlight): $ 37.50

Lumotec-N Fly Plus, part # B&M174NDi-04 (On-Off switch, with standlight): $ 53.50

Lumotec Fly Senso, part # B&M174SN-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, no standlight): $ 43.50

Lumotec Fly Senso Plus, part # B&M174SNDi-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, with standlight): $ 57.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec IQ Fly

The Lumotec IQ Fly, new for 2008, has a new optical system with a more efficient and brighter LED. All of the light from the LED is aimed backwards at the reflector, and then forwards to the road surface. This provides complete control over the focusing of all the light coming from the LED. The beam is sharply focused, with a sharp horizontal top edge, sides and bottom to the beam, brightest at the top, getting progressively dimmer towards the bottom, like the finest European automotive headlights. With all of the light being focused, there is less spill light outside of the focused patch than with most other headlights. So most of the energy produced by the dynamo, and by your pedaling, goes into making light that illuminates the road.

The result is an extraordinarily bright and wide patch of light ahead of you on the road. While many other dynamo headlights concentrate the beam into a narrow patch, so as to give you the brightest possible patch of light, the new IQ system uses such a bright LED that the light can be spread over a large surface area, and remain very bright. It also means that outside of that bright focused patch, there's less light than with the typical headlight.

You might wonder if that means other users of the road might not see you coming, if they happen to be outside of your focused beam. Not to worry. There is spill light. It's a rather small percentage of the total light output. But since the total light output is so high, other road users, whether in cars, on foot, or on bicycles will definitely be able to see you coming. There's plenty of spill light for others to see you by. That's not an issue at all. But there is one side effect that may be a concern for some cyclists, depending on where you're riding, and what you need to see.

Since the spill light is limited, you can think of it (the area outside of the focused beam) as the equivalent of a "be seen" light. For example, I sell several small LED headlights that are not intended to help you see the road, but just for helping others see that you're there. That's comparable to the amount of light in the "spill" of the Lumotec IQ Fly. If you pointed one of those little "be seen" LED lights at an overhead street sign, you probably wouldn't be able to see the sign. The light just isn't bright enough. This is also the case with the Lumotec IQ Fly. With its very bright beam focused on the road as intended, there's not enough spill light off to the side and above to illuminate some street signs. So if you're riding down an unlit road, and you come to an intersection, you may miss it, or at least you may miss the sign, or not be able to read it easily. If you're on familiar roads, it's no problem. But if you're on a 600k brevet at 2AM, that's not so good.

So as you can imagine, this will be a problem for some cyclists, but not for others. For riding in the city with lots of overhead lighting, the IQ will give you a brilliant view of the road ahead. You'll really have to be out to lunch to miss any pot holes. And again, there's plenty of spill light for other road users to see you coming. For the urban commuter, the Lumotec IQ Fly will undoubtedly be all the headlight you'll ever want. But for brevets, or unfamiliar unlit roads where you need to see street signs, you may want to augment the IQ with a helmet light, or continue with our old favorites, the DLumotec, halogen Lumotec or halogen Schmidt E6, and an E6-Z Secondary.

Do not combine the IQ Fly with a secondary headlight. The IQ Fly is not compatible with my Secondary headlights.

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight, but the LED will last longer if you use a wired taillight. The LED will get hotter if there is no taillight attached, and the increased heat will shorten the life of the LED.

Lumotec IQ Fly N, part # B&M174QN-04 (On-Off switch, no standlight): $ 84.00

Lumotec IQ Fly N Plus, part # B&M174QNDi-04 (On-Off switch, with standlight): $ 92.00

Lumotec IQ Fly Senso, part # B&M174QSN-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, no standlight): $ 92.00

Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus, part # B&M174QSNDi-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, with standlight): $ 100.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec
(with Schmidt Switch)

This is the Busch&Müller (B&M) Lumotec, modified by Schmidt. Wilfried Schmidt has taken the Busch&Müller Lumotec and added a high quality on/off stainless steel toggle switch and coaxial wiring to make a highly reliable headlight for hub dynamos. These cost a bit more than the switched headlights from Busch&Müller, but I think they're worth the difference, primarily due to the high quality toggle switch. The Lumotec's 2.4 watt bulb and reflector create a very bright but narrow beam, though not as narrow as the Schmidt E6, above. Many lighting systems have much higher wattage ratings than the Lumotec and Schmidt. Those systems typically give a bright beam of light that covers a very wide angle. The Lumotec beam is tightly focused to give you light only where you need it most. This allows the hub to run with extremely low mechanical resistance. Because of this the Lumotec is not suitable for single track off road riding. $ 47.50

See the table below for all the Lumotec options (wiring and bulbs).

Schmidt Lumotec Oval Plus

The Schmidt Lumotec Oval Plus has the same halogen bulb and lens as the standard Lumotec. But it also has a blue LED which lights up when you stop. When you stop, the halogen bulb goes out, just as it does with the standard Lumotec. Then the LED lights up for about 6 or 7 minutes, depending on how long you've been riding. The LED provides enough light for others to see you, and for you to read a map or your watch. It's not enough to see the road by, but of course when you're stopped, well...

Wilfried Schmidt has taken the Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval Plus and added a high quality on/off stainless steel toggle switch and coaxial wiring to make a highly reliable headlight for hub dynamos. These cost a bit more than the switched headlights from Busch&Müller, but I think they're worth the difference, primarily due to the high quality toggle switch. Due to the internal wiring, this version of the Oval Plus is only compatible with the Schmidt SON dynohub. It cannot be used with any of the Shimano dynohubs I sell! But the Oval Plus Senso (see below) is compatible with the Shimano hubs. If you want an Oval halogen headlight with a standlight for use with a Shimano dynohub, you must only use the Senso version below. And, please do not read anything more into this than what it says. For example, just because this headlight is not compatible with a Shimano dynohub, that doesn't mean that the sun won't set tomorrow afternoon. ;-) This is the only dynohub headlight I sell that won't work with a Shimano dynohub. It is specifically made for the SON. The difference is that the SON does not ground electrically to the dropouts, and the Shimano dynohubs do ground to the dropouts via the axle.

The Oval Plus comes complete with two brackets; one for mounting to the fork crown with cantilever brakes, (as shown above) and one for mounting at the fork crown with caliper brakes. $ 86.00

See the table below for all of the Oval Plus options, (wiring and bulbs).

People often ask me which is better, the Schmidt E6 beam, or the Lumotec beam. It depends mostly on the speed of the rider. At higher speeds, the E6 is better, because the top edge of the beam is brighter, and it can be aimed a bit higher (further away) than the Lumotec/Lumotec Oval Plus headlights. So at high speeds you'll have more time to react to whatever it is you're approaching. But at slower speeds, the wider and more diffused beam of the Lumotec or Oval Plus might be preferred, since it will show you a larger patch of the road close to you. The LED lights you'll read about below have even more diffused, wider beams than the Lumotec, making them even better still for slower speeds.

This doesn't mean that a Lumotec is dangerous at high speed or that an E6 is no good at lower speeds. Not at all. It just means (I'm stating the obvious here) that there is no single ideal headlight for all riders in all conditions. Often, people will choose a dual headlight system so that they can have both a wide beam Lumotec, and the E6 for those fast descents. Spend a few minutes thinking about the type of riding you do, ask on internet forums for the opinions of others who have used these systems, and feel free to call me for advice.

Caution!

One caution about using the Oval Plus headlight. In daylight, you can't tell if the light is on or off, since drag is so low, just a small pulsing at very low speeds is all you feel. The electronics in the Oval Plus can be damaged if you ride for a mile or so with the light switched on with a burned out bulb. At night you know the bulb is burned out and you'll stop and replace the bulb. But in daylight you won't know and you can damage the headlight. So always be sure to turn off the headlight in the daytime. This is only a concern with the Oval Plus headlight. The standard Lumotec and Schmidt E6 are not affected by this. But you will shorten the useful life of the bulb if you don't turn it off. For daytime running lights, an LED headlight is better.

Busch&Müller DIWA Plus system

The new Distance Warning, or DIWA system from Busch&Müller senses when the bike slows down. When riding at night with your lights on, the taillight will glow brighter. In the daytime with the lights off, the taillight will come on just as a car's brake lights would. The DIWA headlight and taillight must be used as a system, though they are available separately for replacement in case of damage. The headlight is otherwise identical to the Lumotec Oval Plus, and the taillight is otherwise identical to the DToplight Plus. There is no option for mounting the taillight on a fender, it's only for mounting on a rear rack, or at the seatpost binder bolt with a special bracket. See this page for all light mounting options.

Lumotec Oval Plus DIWA, Part # B&M171DW-8: $ 91.00

DToplight Plus DIWA, Part # B&M328DW-8: $ 67.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec Plus??

I often get requests for the Busch&Müller Lumotec Plus headlight. It's round, like the standard Lumotec, but has a "Standlight" similar to the Lumotec Oval Plus. Schmidt used to offer this for use with the SON hub using their high quality stainless steel toggle switch. But the small size of the housing made it difficult to modify the light for use with the Schmidt. And, the "Standlight" in the Oval Plus is brighter than in the (round) Lumotec Plus. So now, if you want a "Standlight", the best option is the Lumotec Oval Plus. I do sell the Lumotec Plus for use with Busch&Müller Dymotec sidewall dynamos, since the light requires no switch. I also now stock the Lumotec N and Lumotec Plus N which have a Busch&Müller slider switch. It can be used with the Schmidt hub, but I mostly recommend them for those using the lower priced Shimano dynohub and want to save money on the headlight.

Inoled

I have a full page dedicated to the Inoled headlights and optional battery. They are the only headlights designed to be powered either by a battery or by a dynamo. Read all about it here.

Comparison of the Different Lights for SON

I sell several different headlights for use with the Schmidt hub. The Lumotec is the simplest model (pictured above). When you stop moving, the light goes out. The E6 Secondary can be added to the system for up to 6 watts total light output at speeds over 10mph.

The Lumotec Oval Plus is a bit larger than the others. While the others are round with a reflector surrounding the light, the reflector on the Oval plus is above the light. The Oval Plus also comes with it's own fork mount brackets.

Wilfried Schmidt has taken the Busch&Müller Lumotec and Lumotec Oval Plus and added a high quality on/off stainless steel toggle switch and coaxial wiring to make a highly reliable headlight for hub dynamos. These cost a bit more than the switched headlights from Busch&Müller, but I think they're worth the difference, primarily due to the high quality toggle switch. The Oval Plus version won't work with any hub other than the SON.

The Schmidt E6 headlight is available as both a Primary and a Secondary. It has a better beam pattern for high speed (over 30mph) riding than the Lumotecs, but costs more. It has no built in reflector and there is no option of a standlight, as in the B&M Oval Plus. But the E6 puts more light right where you need it most at high speeds, at the top of the beam. It has a more durable magnetic reed switch switch and bulb replacement is easier.

The Oval Plus is not offered as a Secondary headlight. If you want a dual headlight system, it can be configured as either two round headlights (a standard Lumotec and a E6 Secondary) or as one oval and one round headlight, (an Oval Plus as primary and E6 Secondary), or the Schmidt E6 as primary with an E6 Secondary ($ 122.00 ).

This shows the Lumotec Oval Plus (left) next to a Lumotec (right) mounted directly on a handlebar. The handlebar mount for the Lumotec is a bit taller, to leave space for the wire to an optional taillight. Since the Oval Plus headlight is taller, I supply a shorter mount for it. The handlebar mounts are made by Shimano for their Flight Deck computers. I add a longer screw, a special nut and washers for securing the headlights.

For commuting in urban environments, or for riding at moderate speeds, many riders will prefer an LED headlight. While not as good at high speeds, because the very top of the beam isn't as bright as the halogen beams, the LED headlights provide a larger patch of light on the road. And it's only at the top of the beam that the light isn't as bright. If you know that you'll never be riding over 30mph, you should consider using an LED headlight. You'll eliminate the need to replace bulbs, and with the Busch & Müller DLumotecs, you'll have a bright light as slow as 1.5mph.

Other Headlights with built-in Switches

These switched lights eliminate the need for the separate Shimano switch for use with the Shimano dynamo hubs. The Shimano switch is pretty good, but I have had a few stop working for no apparent reason. They are not covered by any guarantee. These headlights have much more reliable switches, though perhaps not as reliable as the magnetic reed switches on the Schmidt E6 headlights, or the stainless steel toggle switches on the modified Lumotecs.

Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval Plus Senso
(switched)

Lumotec Oval Plus Senso headlight (includes mounting hardware) looks identical to Lumotec Oval. The switch has three positions. On, Off, and Auto Sensing. The Auto Sensing position turns the light on when it gets dark: This headlight is compatible with all of the dynohubs I sell. $ 52.00

If you want the Oval Plus headlight for use with any Sanyo made hub dynamo (all the Shimano dynohubs are made by Sanyo) you'll need to use this "Senso" version. The Oval Plus (several paragraphs above) with the stainless steel toggle switch will not work with the Sanyo/Shimano/SRAM dynohubs because they ground to the frame via the hub axle.

Busch&Müller Lumotec N
(switched)

Lumotec N switched headlight. Built in slider switch. Otherwise the same as the regular Lumotec. Compatible with all hubs. $ 26.00

Compatible with all hub dynamos.

Busch&Müller Lumotec N2 Plus
(switched)

Lumotec N2 Plus switched headlight. Built in slider switch. Otherwise the same as the Lumotec Plus which has the LED standlight, powered by a capacitor. Compatible with all hubs. $ 35.00

Compatible with all hub dynamos.

Retro?

For that older bike you'd like to keep looking period correct, Busch & Müller have kindly produced several special versions of the Lumotec, using a chrome over plastic housing.

Available with or without a standlight, and with either the two position On/Off "N" version, or Senso version. Also available without switch for sidewall dynamos.

Lumotec Retro N: $ 40.50

Lumotec Retro N Plus: $ 58.00

Lumotec Retro Senso: $ 52.50

Lumotec Retro Senso Plus: $ 62.00

As this light is a bit heavier than the regular Lumotec, and as it is specifically designed for use with older bikes using low pressure tires, vibration is likely to cause the metal mount to fail if you use this on a bike with high pressure tires. I recommend 50 PSI maximum for the front tire with this headlight on a metal mount to reduce the likelihood that the mount might fail.

Busch & Müller LED Switched Headlights for Hub Dynamos

All of the switched headlights below are compatible with all hub dynamos.

The DLumotec Topal Senso, and DLumotec Topal Senso Plus use an LED instead of a halogen bulb. The LED will last indefinitely (approximately 100,000 hours) so bulb replacement is no longer an issue. The beam from the LED is more diffused than with a halogen bulb. These are very nice for the commuter who needs to see the road and be seen by automobile drivers in urban environments. And you'll never be home late for dinner because you dropped a bulb while replacing it on the side of the road.

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight. They are compatible with any six volt hub dynamo. They work well as a Primary headlight when used with a Secondary Lumotec or Secondary E6-Z.

DLumotec Topal Senso. Three position switch: On/Off/Senso. The Senso position turns the light on and off as needed. When it's dark, the light automatically switches on. Includes mounts for fork crown mounting, with cantilever - v brakes. Also can be mounted on most suspension forks.

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight, but the LED will last longer if you use a wired taillight. The LED will get hotter if there is no taillight attached.

Should only be used on bicycles with a front fender to prevent spray entering from the bottom.

Price: $ 93.00

DLumotec Topal Senso Plus. Same as above but with addition of a second LED that lights up for several minutes after you stop.

Price: $ 106.00

The DLumotec Oval N, DLumotec Oval N Plus, DLumotec Oval Senso and DLumotec Oval Senso Plus use a 1 watt LED as the headlight instead of a halogen bulb. The optics of the DLumotec Oval series headlights are the same as the DLumotec Topal. Just the form factor is different. The Topal is ideal for bikes with suspension forks, as long as you have a fender. It can't be mounted using my handlebar brackets. The Dlumotec Oval however can be mounted with handlebar mounts. And it ships with a bracket for the fork crown. If you don't have a front fender, this is the best choice.

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight, but the LED will last longer if you use a wired taillight. The LED will get hotter if there is no taillight attached.

DLumotec Oval N: Two position switch: On/Off No Standlight. Includes fork crown mount for bicycles with caliper brakes. If your bike has cantilever brakes, and you want to mount the headlight over your front tire, you'll need a different bracket. Please tell us when you're ordering what type of brakes you have.

Price: $ 68.50

DLumotec Oval N Plus: Looks identical to the DLumotec Oval N above but also has a standlight. The standlight remains on for 6 or 7 minutes after you stop, helping others see you at intersections. Includes caliper brake mount.

Price: $ 76.00

DLumotec Oval Senso: Three position switch: On/Off/Senso. No Standlight. Includes fork crown mount for caliper brakes. Includes caliper brake mount.

Price: $ 72.00

DLumotec Oval Senso Plus: Three position switch On/Off/Senso with standlight. The standlight remains on for 6 or 7 minutes after you stop, helping others see you at intersections. Includes caliper brake mount.

Price: $ 80.00

I've had a report from a customer that his DLumotec headlight, when placed directly between his CatEye wireless computer and the wireless computer sensor on the fork, caused the computer to malfunction. Moving the DLumotec away from the line between the two computer components eliminated the problem. So, while I haven't been able to confirm this, it's possible that there's something about the electronics in the DLumotec that causes interference with the CatEye wireless computer. So, if you have a CatEye wireless computer, you may find that you need to take it into account when positioning your headlight. I haven't had reports of issues with other headlights and other cycle computers.

Unswitched Headlights

The headlights for the Busch&Müller sidewall dynamos do not require a switch since the system is turned on by moving the dynamo to contact the tire. By the way, it's that movement that determines whether a dynamo is right sided or left sided. So the more expensive modified Lumotec headlights that I sell with the Schmidt SON generator hub (above) are not needed. I stock four 6 volt Busch&Müller halogen headlights along with the BiSy 6 volt and Schmidt E6 6 volt halogen headlight without switch for use with the Dymotec 6 and S6 generators, or any 6 volt tire driven generator. I stock a 12 volt headlight and 2 12 volt taillights for use with the Dymotec S12. And I stock four 6 volt LED headlights from Busch&Müller. And of course the Inolight 10+ and Inolight 20+ can be used with any sidewall dynamo, 6 volt or 12 volt.

Shimano makes a switch for use with the Shimano NX-30 hub. It mounts behind the fork crown using a bolt through the crown. The switch is wired to the hub, and your lights are wired to the switch. If you have caliper brakes with allen bolt fittings, the Shimano switch won't work, unless you also use a special nut that replaces the allen nut. Whatever headlight you choose, it has to have a switch somewhere, otherwise the light will be on all the time, and you'll burn out the bulb sooner. Use these unswitched lights if you are using the external Shimano switch.

All of the headlights I sell have circuitry to protect the bulb from burn-out at high speeds. All 6 volt headlights ship to me with a 2.4 watt bulb installed, and are intended to be used with a .6 watt taillight. A 3 watt bulb is optional for the 6 volt headlights when used without a taillight. The 12 volt headlight ships with a 5 watt bulb. 5 watt bulbs cannot be used in a 6 volt headlight. 2.4 or 3 watt bulbs cannot be used in a 12 volt headlight.

Busch&Müller Lumotec & Lumotec Plus
(unswitched)

Busch&Müller Lumotec (6 volt) headlight for use with Dymotec 6 and S6 generators (round). Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. $ 17.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec Plus (6 volt) headlight for use with Dymotec 6 and S6 generators (round). Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. $ 37.00

The Lumotec Plus adds a capacitor and an LED. The capacitor is charged while you ride. When you stop, the capacitor powers the LED for several minutes to help others see you while you're stopped at intersections. The LED is not nearly as bright as the halogen bulb. But it's plenty bright enough for drivers to see that you're there.

A reflector surrounds the lens for added safety. No brackets are provided with the round Lumotec and Lumotec Plus headlights, but are sold separately.

Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval, Lumotec Oval Plus and Lumotec Oval Plus 12
(unswitched)

Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval (6 volt) headlight and brackets for use with Dymotec 6 and S6 generators. Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. $ 24.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval Plus (6 volt) headlight and brackets (looks the same as the Lumotec Oval) for use with Dymotec 6 and S6 generators. Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. $ 44.00

The Oval Plus model adds a capacitor and an LED. The capacitor is charged while you ride. When you stop, the capacitor powers the LED for several minutes to help others see you while you're stopped at intersections.

Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval Plus 12 (12 volt, 5 watt) headlight and brackets for use only with Dymotec S12 generators. Since it is part of a 12 volt system, this headlight is amazingly bright! It is without question my brightest headlight. Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. Comes with a 5 watt bulb. Available now: $ 82.00

A reflector is above the lens for added safety.

The bracket shown will mount the light directly over the front tire using the hole in the center of the fork crown on bikes with cantilever brakes or v-brakes. Also included with the Oval headlight is a bracket for mounting on bikes with caliper brakes. These brackets are also sold separately.

Schmidt E6-OS
(unswitched)

This is the Schmidt E6-OS headlight (without a switch). The optics are the same as the BiSy, but it is easier to replace a bulb and is more ruggedly constructed. The E6-OS does not come with wiring or connectors. You need to purchase those separately. See below.

With 2.4 watt bulb: $ 108.00

With 3 watt bulb: $ 110.00

Busch & Müller LED unswitched headlights

The DLumotec Topal, and DLumotec Topal Plus use an LED instead of a halogen bulb. The LED will last indefinitely (approximately 100,000 hours) so bulb replacement is no longer an issue. The beam from the LED is more diffused than with a halogen bulb. These are very nice for the commuter who needs to see the road and be seen by automobile drivers in urban environments. And you'll never be home late for dinner because you dropped a bulb while replacing it on the side of the road.

These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight. They are compatible with any six volt dynamo. They are not compatible with the 12 volt Dymotec S12 dynamo. There is no 12 volt LED headlight available from Busch & Müller.

DLumotec Topal. includes mounts for fork crown mounting, with cantilever - v brakes, and a mount for the cross brace on most suspension forks.

Price: $ 82.00

DLumotec Topal Plus. Same as above but with addition of a second LED that lights up for several minutes after you stop.

Price: $ 95.00

The DLumotec Oval and DLumotec Oval Plus use a 1 watt LED as the headlight instead of a halogen bulb. The optics of the DLumotec Oval are the same as the DLumotec Topal. Just the form factor is different. The Topal is ideal for bikes with suspension forks. It can't be mounted using my handlebar brackets. The Dlumotec Oval however can be mounted with handlebar mounts. And it ships with a bracket for the fork crown with caliper brakes. A mount for cantilever brakes is available.

DLumotec Oval: Includes fork crown mount for caliper brakes.

Price: $ 65.00

See below for fork crown mount for cantilever brakes and handlebar mount.

DLumotec Oval Plus: Looks identical to the DLumotec Oval above but also has a standlight. The standlight remains on for 6 or 7 minutes after you stop, helping others see you at intersections.

Price: $ 73.00

Comparison of the Different Unswitched Lights for Bottle Dynamos

All of the B&M LED headlights reach full brightness at about 1.5mph rather than about 5.5mph with a halogen headlight. The beam is wider and taller than the Lumotec halogen beam but it is not as bright at the top of the beam. So for riding at high speeds it probably won't give you as much time to react to something on the road surface, since the light doesn't have quite as much "reach" as a tightly focused halogen. However, at moderate speeds I prefer the DLumotec's larger beam to the halogen Lumotec's tighter beam. Being larger you can see a wider area in front of you. And you are more visible to other traffic. Rather than concentrating the beam for high speed riding, it spreads the light around more. And since the light is bright at lower speeds, you have more visibility while moving slowly through intersections. These characteristics make the DLumotec headlights great for commuting in urban areas with lots of traffic and other light sources that you're, in effect, competing with for attention. It doesn't matter that you don't have the very bright spot 100 feet down the road that you get with a halogen headlight because you normally would have street lighting. So the light's purpose is a bit different.

In brief, if you're riding mostly on unlit country roads with lots of fast descents, a halogen headlight would be preferred For urban riding with other light sources and lots of traffic, the LED headlights would be my choice.

All Busch&Müller lights with the Plus designation have a capacitor and an LED; their "Standlight". The capacitor stores electrical energy while the generator is spinning. When you stop, and the halogen bulb in the headlight goes out, the capacitor supplies electricity to the LED, giving you seven to eight minutes of light. The light isn't bright enough for you to see the road by, but is bright enough for others to see you.

For more information about Lumotec headlights, go to the Busch&Müller home page.

The BiSy and E6 (6 volt) headlights have a tighter beam pattern than the Lumotecs. They are my best 6 volt headlights for very fast riding. They have no built-in reflector. They also lack the capacitor and LED standlight option. When you stop, you have no light. The BiSy/E6 optics are superb. But if you use them, you should also consider having a battery powered LED headlight for added safety at intersections.

The BiSy and E6 use the same halogen bulbs as the 6 volt Busch&Müller headlights above. They can be used with a taillight or without. With a taillight, use a 2.4 watt bulb, just as with the Lumotecs. Without a taillight, use a 3 watt bulb. There is no 12 volt version of the BiSy or E6.

Bulbs & Spare Parts

Note: The Schmidt E6, BiSy and 6 volt B+M Lumotec halogen headlights normally ship with a 2.4 watt bulb, on the assumption that it will be used along with a 0.6 watt taillight (not included). If you won't be using a wired taillight, the bulb should be changed to a 3 watt bulb. When you order your system, I will ask you whether or not you'll be using a wired taillight. That's so I know which bulb to supply with your headlight(s). Add $ 2.00 to swap to the more expensive 3 watt bulb.

Spare bulbs for the headlights are not readily available at most bike shops or electronic supply shops. As far as I can tell, there is no other use here in the USA for the type of bulb used in the Lumotecs or Schmidt E6. So, while they are quite common in Europe, they are only available at shops that sell these lights. However, I import them 500 at a time, and I have no difficulty whatsoever getting them. I generally have several hundred of each type in stock at any time, so you can always get them directly from me. Since they are quite inexpensive compared to postage, it makes sense to get several spares when you buy your system. Run time for the bulbs is roughly 100 hours.

The bulbs are the same regardless of the headlight you choose. So, if you already have a Lumotec, and you want to change to a Schmidt E6, spare bulbs you already have will work in the E6. They are the same.

The halogen bulbs used tend to get dim before they finally blow out. This is due to microscopic bits of the filament burning off and coating the inside surface of the bulb. So if you find your system isn't as bright as when it was new, just put in a new bulb. You should be pleasantly surprised at the difference. LEDs last indefinitely.

2.4 watt Osram or Phillips (6 volt) halogen bulb, original equipment as supplied by Busch&Müller . $ 4.50

3 watt Phillips (6 volt) halogen bulb. The best bulb to use if you won't have a tail light wired to the headlight. $ 5.50

5 watt (12 volt) halogen bulb for use with the Lumotec Oval Plus 12 headlight. Available now: $ 18.00

Headlights designed for use with 6 volt bulbs cannot be changed to 12 volt bulbs.

Replacement Lenses

If the front section, the lens of your Lumotec or E6 headlight should be damaged or lost, we stock replacements. We also have replacement lenses for some taillights. See the taillight page.

Replacement lens for round Lumotec headlights: $ 6.75

Replacement lens for the round Lumotec Plus headlight: $ 16.00

Replacement lens for the Schmidt E6 headlight: $ 15.00

Pricing

Ordering

Almost everything else you need to know about pricing and ordering a lighting system can be found here. This page describes the Schmidt SON hub, and lists prices for not only the hubs, but many wheels built by me with the SON hubs.

Mounting Lights

Some folks choose to make their own brackets for mounting the headlight. I have six different brackets available for either fork crown mounting, or handlebar mounting. The Lumotec is shorter than the Lumotec Oval Plus, so I have taller brackets for the Lumotec than for the Lumotec Oval Plus. The E6 works best if mounted on one of my handlebar brackets, either directly on the handlebar, or on the side of the fork. See my page on mounting headlights.

Taillights

For a detailed description of compatible taillights, see my page on taillights.

Battery Powered Lights

Other battery powered taillights and headlights are available from Busch&Müller and Cateye. And of course the Inolights can be powered by batteries. They even have their own dedicated battery pack available. See the Inoled page for all the details. The small battery lights make great supplements or backups for the various dynamo powered lights shown here.

Dealer Inquiries Invited.

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This page updated: Monday, July 21, 2008

Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
USA
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax