|Headlights by Wilfried Schmidt|
|New for 2014, the Edelux II|
Wilfried Schmidt Maschinenbau of Tübingen, Germany makes several headlights for 6 volt dynamo systems. Their latest is the Edelux II which produces the brightest beam available at 90 lux at 15 kph, the German standard for lux measurement. The beam is shaped much like a high quality automotive low beam, bright at the top then getting progressively dimmer towards the bottom, resulting in extremely even illumination of the road ahead for the cyclist. It puts most of the light further down the road so you can see at a distance when descending a hill, and there's still plenty of light close to the bike. The Edelux II has an all aluminum housing and a high quality hard glass lens instead of a plastic lens, which is common on other headlights. For the winter commuter riding on sanded and salted roads, the Edelux II lens will remain clear for many years without clouding up from sand kicked up by passing cars.
Like the original Edelux, the Edelux II uses a mirror that Schmidt buys from their friends at Busch & Müller. The original Edelux uses the Busch & Müller IQ-Tec mirror, introduced in 2007, and the Edelux II uses the new IQ Tec P mirror, introduced at Eurobike, August, 2013. This new mirror projects a much wider beam than does the original, about twice the width. Yet, with new brighter LEDs, the lux measurement is still higher. So the road ahead is not only illuminated with a much wider beam, it's also a bit brighter.
But there's one more thing about this new headlight that is just extraordinary. In order to illuminate the road ahead evenly, there needs to be a smooth increase in the projected light from the bottom of the beam to the top. The further the light has to go, the brighter it needs to be at the source (the headlight) in order for the road surface to be evenly lit from the viewpoint of the cyclist. The older Edelux with IQ-Tec reflector did what I thought was an admirable job of producing an evenly lit road surface. But this new beam is even better in that regard, while still being so much wider and taller.
Why is this important? If the road surface close to the rider is brighter than the road at a distance, your eyes will have more difficulty making out details on the road at a distance when you're riding fast or descending a hill. On a fast descent, the further away you can see clearly, the more time you'll have to react to whatever it is you're approaching.
Here's a photo I made of the Edelux II beam from the rider's viewpoint.
And here's a diagram showing how the beam is projected. "M" is for meters.
The Edelux II is available in polished aluminum finish, silver anodized finish, black anodized finish, and anodized in the same red color as the Rohloff hubs and red SON hubs.
Order the Edelux II with a 60cm wire with 4.8mm connectors for the SON hubs, or with a 140cm wire and loose connectors. You can also specify any length up to 140cm and we will install the connectors for the SON hub for you when you place your order.
|Schmidt Edelux II Polished 60cm wire||SCH680600||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Polished 140cm wire||SCH681401||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Silver Anodized 60cm wire||SCH680690||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Silver Anodized 140cm wire||SCH681491||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Black Anodized 60cm wire||SCH680610||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Black Anodized 140cm wire||SCH681411||$ 176.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Red Anodized 60cm wire||SCH680620||$ 190.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Red Anodized 140cm wire||SCH681421||$ 190.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Blue Anodized 140cm wire||SCH681446||$ 190.00|
|Edelux II Co-Axial|
|The Edelux II can also come fitted with Co-Axial Connectors. These make it easier to connect and disconnect the wires to the hub when installing or removing the front wheel. The short wire stays attached to the SON hub, so you only connect and disconnect at the co-axial connection, which is easier on your fingers than using the direct connection at the hub axle. The co-axial connectors are waterproof.|
|Schmidt Edelux II Polished 60cm wire with Co-Axial Connector||SCH684500||$ 185.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Black 60cm wire with Co-Axial Connector||SCH684510||$ 185.00|
|Schmidt Edelux II Silver 60cm wire with Co-Axial Connector||SCH684590||$ 185.00|
|We sell these co-axial connectors individually, and installed on a co-axial wire. If you're handy with soldering electronic parts, you can probably install these yourself. If not, send us your headlight and we'll do it here. If you have a Busch & Müller headlight with their dual strand wire, we'll splice in some Schmidt co-axial wire and then install the connectors.|
|Schmidt Co-Axial connector for soldering, MALE||SCH72600||$ 7.00|
|Schmidt Co-Axial connector for soldering, FEMALE||SCH72601||$ 7.00|
|Schmidt Co-Axial connectors, PAIR for soldering, MALE & FEMALE||SCH72602||$ 14.00|
|We stock a short cable, as seen above in the photo of my orange bike. 4.8mm connectors at one end to attach to the SON hub, and FEMALE C0-Axial connector at the other end. A loose MALE Co-Axial connector is included. Solder that to the end of your Schmidt co-axial wire and you're good to go.|
|Schmidt short dynamo cable, 4.8mm & FEMALE Co-Axial connector with loose MALE Co-Axial connector for soldering||SCH72610||$ 19.00|
|Schmidt headlights do not include any mount. You must purchase a mount separately. See this page for mounting options. Here's the Edelux II on my Rambouillet. The mount is the Busch & Müller HD Caliper mount.|
|Edelux II Upside Down|
There are two upside down versions! Both versions make the electrical connection to Ground via the mount. Both versions are available only in the polished finish. The most popular version has an On/Off switch, 140cm wire to the hub, and taillight connections. Unlike the regular Edelux II headlight, there is no Senso function. See the pretty pictures!
If you happen to be dynamo-taillight-phobic, you have my sympathy. But you should not use this version of the Edelux II in the rain without installing the taillight wire connector and its accompanying screw. Otherwise water can cause a short circuit and your headlight won't work. Then, as soon as possible, see a mental health specialist about your phobia. ;-)
|The photo above left shows the Edelux II E as it ships. Don't use it this way! Above right shows it how it is intended to be used. There's a crimping connector screwed onto the positive taillight connection. But here I just haven't crimped a wire onto the connector. The loop of wire in the background is for connecting to the hub dynamo. Now look at the two photos below.|
|The photo on the left is how this light should be used if you do not have a taillight connected to the headlight. If you don't like the look of the taillight wire connector, just put a small washer under the screw head and tighten down the screw. Under no circumstances should you use the light as shown in the right photo. Without a screw in the threaded hole, water can easily get in when it rains and the water will cause a short circuit, and your headlight won't work!|
|Edelux II Upside Down, Polished with 140cm wire, switch and taillight connections||SCH680001||$ 205.00|
If you fabricate your own switch, of just plan to leave the headlight on all the time, you can get the Edelux II without switch and taillight connections. The lights look almost identical. But the version without switch has no wire to the hub dynamo. The connection is made via the mount, using the body of the mount for ground, and the top position screw for power.
The bike's switch ought to have connectors for both the Edelux II headlight and the taillight. The headlight comes with connectors to attach to the wires you would run from the switch.
|Edelux II Upside Down Polished without wire or switch||SCH680000||$ 190.00|
Halogen Schmidt E6 Headlight (Close-Out)
The original E6 headlight with glowing ring.
The halogen bulbed E6 headlight is without question the finest halogen headlight for bicycles ever made. While not as bright as the new LED headlights, the projected beam of the E6 is amazing. And many older cyclists prefer the color of the halogen bulb to the color of LED headlights and find it easier to see, even though the total light output is lower.
Here's the later production E6 without the glowing ring, next to the Edelux II. The glowing ring was eliminated because recumbent riders were annoyed by the bright ring almost directly in front of their eyes.
The E6 is available as a Primary or as a Secondary headlight. You may use the two together for the ultimate halogen headlight system. Since halogen headlights don't have as much power as current LED headlights, the halogen beams are narrower to concentrate the available photons. So you can use two E6 headlights and aim them side by side for a wider beam. But the two headlights cannot be identical. They must be wired differently in order to work together.
Use the Primary by itself as the only headlight, or wired in series with the E6 Secondary (E6-Z). Use it with or without a taillight. If you have a wired taillight, use a 2.4 watt bulb. If you use the E6 Primary without a wired taillight, it must have a 3 watt bulb. We have both. When using the Primary with a Secondary, the correct bulb is still determined by whether or not there is a taillight connected to the Primary headlight. The E6 Secondary cannot have a taillight connected and can only be used with a 3 watt bulb.
E6 Primary headlights are now sold out. We cannot get any more.
We still have the Secondary, E6-Z available. These work along with any Schmidt or Busch & Müller halogen headlight designed for use with a hub dynamo. That headlight would be the "Primary" in a dual halogen headlight system. The taillight would be wired only to the primary headlight.
Schmidt E6-Z Secondary with 3 watt halogen bulb, 90cm wire, Part # SCHE6BSEC: $ 45.00
We also have the E6 available unswitched for use with sidewall dynamos like the Busch & Müller Dymotec 6. You could use this with a hub dynamo. But it will always be turned on, since it doesn't have its own switch.
Schmidt E6B OS No Switch 2.4 watt halogen bulb, Part # SCHE6BOS: $ 40.00
Schmidt E6B OS No Switch 3 watt halogen bulb, Part # SCHE6BOS3: $ 42.00
Don't these dynamo lights Blow Up?
If you do a search on the internet for bicycle dynamo lighting systems, you will undoubtedly come across warnings about bulbs burning out if you ride your bike too fast. This is true of systems designed back in the 1920s, and used on bikes such as Raleigh three speeds up through the early 1980s. These were very crude systems by today's standards, with no voltage limiting. While you can still buy cheaply made dynamo lights that will blow bulbs on a downhill run, none of the systems I sell are so poorly made that you have to concern yourself with this, if used with a proper 6 volt, 3 watt dynamo. Without exception, every headlight I sell for use with either a hub dynamo or sidewall dynamo incorporates circuitry to prevent the overvoltage of the bulb. You have absolutely nothing to worry about.
Schmidt Edelux and Edelux II headlights are made to be powered by a 6 volt, 3 watt hub dynamo. The use of Edelux or Edelux II powered by Velogical dynamos or other experimental generators risks damage to the headlight's electronics. Damage caused by overload through such generators is not covered by the 5 year Schmidt guarantee!
We have quite a few taillights that can be attached to the headlight. If you use a taillight with a halogen headlight, you should use a different bulb than if you use the headlight alone. With an LED headlight, there's nothing to change in the headlight regardless of whether a taillight is used. Schmidt makes taillights for use with Schmidt headlights. These are also compatible with most Busch & Müller headlights. And all Busch & Müller taillights work with Schmidt headlights.
The Great Taillight Controversy
Some people worry that if they have a taillight wired to the system, the wire might be damaged somehow, causing the taillight to fail. Others take their bikes on trips via airplane, and need to remove rear racks and fenders to pack the bike, and the dynamo powered taillights need to mount on either a rack or a fender, raising the issue of having to disconnect a wire along with the rack or fender.
But these issues need not be a problem. I have plenty of wire connectors here that can be used in-line, so that when you remove your rack, you quickly disconnect the wire right along with it. I get them from Radio Shack, and so can you, but I'm happy to give you some. Unbolting a rack is a lot more work than disconnecting an electrical connector that's designed for that purpose. And by using dynamo powered taillights, you reduce the need for batteries, the expense of buying new ones, and the hassle of being sure rechargeables are properly charged. Battery taillights are great for backing up dynamo taillights, in the rare case of a wire failure or circuit failure inside the light itself.
As of March 2007 I also have heavy duty coaxial wire available which should make people less concerned about wire failures. In practice, wire failures are extremely rare, even with the light weight wire from Busch & Müller. I know this because I have quite a few customers for whom I have installed their taillights myself, and who ride many thousands of miles a year, and are here with their bike quite frequently. It just isn't a problem, in practice. I sell several hundred wired taillights a year, and it's rare to have a customer call to complain about his wire failing. Almost all calls come while the customer is installing the system for the first time. I still recommend a second battery powered taillight, either for the added light, but mostly as a backup in the rare event a wire does fail. However, it's generally best to leave them switched off, and save the battery for when it's really needed on a rainy night. When you consider all of the pros and cons, if you could only have one taillight, if at all possible it should be wired and powered by the dynamo.
Click here for light mounting options.
Click here for wiring instructions.
Your SON hub equipped wheel is expensive. You can help keep it from being stolen from your bike by using a Pitlock skewer.
Where to Buy?
Call us at 603 478 0900 to order directly from Peter White Cycles.
See this page for a list of local bicycle shops that generally stock our products, or can order them for you. If there's no shop in your area, you can of course order directly from us.
If you live outside the US or Canada, please first check this web page to see if there is a distributor for Schmidt products in your country. http://www.nabendynamo.de/kauf/international.html
If there is, I will not ship any Schmidt products to you. You must contact the importer in your country.
Dealer Inquiries Invited. Please call 603 478 0900
If you have a retail bicycle shop, or are a bicycle manufacturer or professional wheel builder, you can purchase the SON hubs and lights, or built wheels for resale. Any shop in the US or Canada can purchase SON hubs and lights for sale in your store. Please call me for wholesale pricing on hubs, lights and complete built wheels with Wheelsmith spokes and Velocity rims built by Peter Jon White. Peter White Cycles is the official representative for Wilfried Schmidt Maschinenbau in the US and Canada, and we want all bicycle shops to be able to sell the SON. But, we will absolutely not sell any Schmidt products to bicycle shops outside the US or Canada.
For more information, see my dealer page.
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This page updated: Friday, February 3, 2017
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