How to Order

You'll need to decide whether you're getting a built wheel from me or just the hub. Then you'll need to decide what headlight(s) you'll be using and if you'll be using a taillight in the system or just using headlight(s). You have the option of using one or two headlights if your power source is the SON hub. If you use two headlights you can still have a taillight. The taillight uses .6 watts. The taillight attaches directly to the primary headlight. If you use a taillight, the primary halogen headlight must use a 2.4 watt bulb, for a total of 3 watts. The secondary headlight uses a 3 watt bulb, regardless of whether or not you have a taillight attached to the primary headlight. If your primary headlight uses an LED, it can be used with or without a taillight with no alteration needed for the headlight.

All headlights have circuitry to protect the bulb or LED from blowing out when the hub is spinning fast on a downhill. The circuitry assumes you have either a 3 watt bulb in the halogen headlight, or a 2.4 watt bulb in the halogen headlight and a .6 watt taillight, totaling 3 watts. If you use a 2.4 watt bulb in the primary headlight without a taillight attached, the bulb will not last very long. This is also an issue with certain LED headlights, but not all.

There is very little difference in brightness between the 3 watt bulb and the 2.4 watt bulb. Don't decide whether or not to use a wired taillight based on the idea that the 3 watt bulb will be noticeably brighter. It really isn't. The 3 watt bulb only exists because the 2.4 watt bulb (which the entire system has been designed around) will blow out quickly when used without a taillight, and some bikes can't easily fit a wired taillight. The 3 watt bulb is not intended for getting maximum brightness from the system. And using a taillight will have little to no effect on the brightness of an LED headlight.

Choosing between halogen bulb headlights and LED headlights can seem confusing, and I suppose it's getting rather complicated, what with the new headlights that are now available. Our brightest headlights are still the halogens, (but this will change by early summer, 2008, when some new headlights arrive from Germany). The halogen bulb has a tiny filament that glows extremely bright. That tiny bright spot can be focused so as to concentrate the light very tightly. In particular, the Schmidt E6 has an extremely bright top edge to its beam. When that edge is aimed about 100 feet down the road, you can clearly see everything in your path up to 100 feet. That makes it relatively safe to ride fast at night on very dark roads since you have plenty of time to react to something on the road surface.

But the beam from the E6 is narrow. The light is concentrated to make it bright at a distance. So some people find that they want a wider beam. There are several ways to do this. You can get a Secondary E6 and aim it beside the Primary. But the two headlights won't get to full brightness until you're at 11mph or so. Another option is to get a Lumotec headlight instead. Its wider beam isn't quite as bright as the E6 at the top, but it does spread out the light more so you don't feel quite like you're riding down a tunnel, like some do with the E6.

Or, you can use the E6 Secondary, but use an LED headlight as the Primary instead of the E6. A Busch & Müller DLumotec LED headlight reaches full brightness at about 1.5mph. It's got a nice wide beam that really opens up your view of the road. Used alone, it's not as good for riding fast down a steep hill the way an E6 is. But with an E6 as Secondary, you'll have the best of both worlds.

The newest LED headlights from Busch & Müller, the Lumotec IQ Fly N, IQ Fly N PLus, IQ Fly Senso and IQ Fly Senso Plus have wider and brighter beams than their halogen headlights. They are much like the Schmidt E6 halogen headlight, but wider. To my eye, they aren't quite as bright as the E6 at the top of the beam, though some people say they are. So we finally have LED headlights that are suitable for fast descending.

If your bike can readily take either a fender mount or rear rack mount taillight, your best option is to use a taillight wired to the hub via the primary headlight, AND a battery powered taillight as a backup. If you're using a racing style bike without a rear rack or fenders, you should forget about a wired taillight and stick with battery taillights that can mount to the seat stays, such as the CatEye LD250 or Busch&Müller Relite D. In that case, get the primary headlight with a 3 watt bulb. But redundancy is good. The battery taillight acts as a backup to the dynamo taillight, in case of damage to the wire. The dynamo taillight backs up the battery taillight in case the batteries fail. And, whenever possible, use rechargeable batteries. They don't fill up the landfill nearly as fast.

Next, you need to decide where to mount the headlight(s). If you use a single Lumotec or Lumotec Oval Plus headlight, it can mount directly over the tire at the fork crown. I have four brackets for that purpose, two each for the Lumotec standard, and the Lumotec Oval Plus. The Oval Plus brackets are shorter, since the Oval Plus headlight is a few grams heavier and taller. For each headlight, there is a bracket for mounting on forks with caliper or sidepull brakes, and a different bracket for mounting on forks with cantilever or "V" brakes. These brackets are included with the Oval Plus headlight at no additional charge, and are available as spares. They are sold separately for the standard (round) Lumotec, and the now discontinued Secondary Lumotec. The fork crown brackets can only hold one light. Two lights cannot be mounted at the fork crown with the brackets I sell. The Lumotec brackets aren't strong enough for holding the E6. And the Lumotec Oval Plus brackets may not hold the E6 high enough off the front tire to keep the tire from blocking the headlight beam.

Most lights can also be mounted on your handlebar with the R&M handlebar mount. Using my custom handlebar mount, the light can also be mounted on the side of the fork by using a Cronometro Nob. The Nob is intended for mounting computers on aero bars so that the computer is aligned correctly, rather than turned 90 degrees to the side. But the Nob can be mounted to your fork blade, and then my handlebar mount can be mounted on the Nob.

If you use the dual headlight system by adding the E6 Secondary, it's helpful but not essential that the Secondary be easily reached while you're riding, since at low speeds (under 8 - 10mph or so) with a Primary using a halogen bulb, you'll get more light output by having the Secondary switched off. So, if you want the primary headlight mounted on the side of the fork, you may want the E6 Secondary mounted on the handlebar, or at the fork crown. You could have the primary headlight mounted at the fork crown, and the Secondary mounted on the handlebar. You can have both headlights mounted on the handlebar, or both on an Excess Access bar. Some people simply put both headlights on the fork blades; one on each side, using two Cronometro Nobs and two custom handlebar mounts. If you're flexible enough to comfortably reach down to the area just below the brake on your fork, that will work fine for you.

The primary headlights with stainless steel toggle switches, whether Standard Lumotecs or Oval Plus models, can be had with 50cm wires or 100cm wires. The Schmidt E6 headlight is available with either 50cm wiring or 120cm wiring. The 50cm wire is perfect for mounting the E6 on the right fork blade, or either Lumotec on the fork crown.. If you want to mount the primary on the handlebar or on the left side of the fork, you must get the longer wire. Since the electrical connectors on the hub must be positioned on the right (derailleur) side of the bike, the wire will have to run up the right fork blade, across the fork crown, and down the left fork blade to mount the headlight on the left fork blade. That requires the longer wire.

The 100cm wire will come with bare wire ends, allowing you to cut the wire to exactly the length you need. The 50cm wire will come with connectors attached. Just plug it into the hub axle connectors. Cut the wire a bit longer than you think you'll need. That way, if the end of the wire should be damaged, you'll be able to reconnect the connector by shortening the wire. The wires can't be replaced! But they can be spliced.

The Secondary E6 comes with an 80cm wire, with the connectors all attached. If you aren't sure you need a Secondary, you can always add it later. It can be added to any headlight system (except the Inoled) without making any modifications to the system. It just plugs in. See the Wiring Instructions for details on making the right connections.

Some headlights are a bit different.

Many of our newer headlights come wired directly from Busch & Müller and are not modified by Schmidt. These all come with a long wire attached to the light, plastic slider switches, and bare ends to the wire. If you will be using these headlights with a SON dynohub, you will need the 4.8mm female connectors attached to the wire. You can attach the connectors yourself, after cutting the wire to exactly the length you need. But I have a special crimping tool that makes a more secure connection than you can make at home unless you solder the connection. For that reason, if we know that you'll be using a B&M headlight you're buying with a SON hub, we will connect the 4.8mm connectors to the wire for you. The wire will be longer than you need, but you can loop up the extra, and you'll have a very secure connection. We don't charge for this.

And if you will be using these lights with a different hub such as one of the Shimano dynohubs, you'll use the grey and black two part plastic connector that comes with the Shimano hub.

Our LED headlights from Busch & Müller such as the DLumotec Topal Senso Plus or the DLumotec Oval N Plus can be used as Primary lights in a dual headlight setup powered by the Schmidt SON hub. But they cannot be used as a Secondary headlight. When used with a Schmidt E6-Z Secondary, the DLumotecs make an exceptionally good primary headlight since they reach full brightness at about 1.5 mph. Riders just keep the E6 Secondary turned on all the time since having it turned on doesn't cause the DLumotec to be dim even at very low speeds. It's a great combination for commuting as well as for long distance events like brevets. You can ride slowly through an intersection and have the Primary headlight be very bright.

Spare Bulbs

Spare bulbs for the halogen headlights are not readily available at most bike shops or electronic supply shops in the US or Canada just yet, but we're working on that. As far as I can tell, there is no other use here in the USA for the type of bulb used in the Lumotecs or Schmidt E6. So, while they are quite common in Europe, they are still only available in those bike shops that carry these lights. However, I import them 500 at a time, and I have no difficulty whatsoever getting them. I always have several hundred of each type in stock at any time, so you can always get them directly from me. Since they are quite inexpensive compared to postage, it makes sense to get several spares when you buy your system. Run time for the bulbs is roughly 100 hours. And, more and more bike shops are selling these lights all the time. So it won't be long before you will be able to find them at the average bike shop, we hope. ;-)

The Schmidt E6 and all of the B&M headlights use the exact same bulbs. If you have a Lumotec, and put an E6 on another bike, you use the same bulbs for each. There are only two types of bulbs, 2.4 watt for use when using a wired taillight, and 3 watt when not using a wired taillight.

And don't worry about availability of parts like bulbs should Peter White Cycles mysteriously go out of business. ;-) The market for these products is now quite large in the US and Canada, and our German partners will immediately set up new distribution for these products if that should ever happen. You won't be left with lights you can't get parts for!

The halogen bulbs used tend to get dim before they finally blow out. This is due to microscopic bits of the filament burning off and coating the inside surface of the bulb. So if you find your system isn't as bright as when it was new, just put in a new bulb. You should be pleasantly surprised at the difference. This doesn't happen with the LED headlights.

Some LED headlights work better if you have a taillight attached. The DLumotecs and Inoleds are in this category. The Lumotec IQ Fly is less sensitive to having no taillight attached, but still works a bit better with a taillight. The new Schmidt Edelux headlight, which should be available in June 2008, will work the same, regardless of whether there's a taillight attached.

The issue with some of these LED headlights is heat. The hotter the LED gets, the shorter its life, and the dimmer it runs. If you use a DLumotec, you should certainly use a wired taillight, as the LED inside gets hotter without a taillight. Same with the Lumotec IQ Fly, but not to the same degree, pun fully intended. ;-)

700c Wheels

I have a huge assortment of rims in stock. Rim prices range from $30 to over $100. The labor charge for building a 32 or 36 spoke wheel is $ 410.60 . Wheelsmith DB-14 stainless spokes cost $ 410.60 including brass nipples.

I build matching rear wheels with Shimano, Campagnolo, White Industries, Velocity, Chris King, Phil Wood and Rohloff hubs. Some examples listed below.

See my Velocity rim page for many rim details. A Mavic rim page is in the works. Rest assured I stock most Mavic rims.

I stock a huge range of rims in various diameters. From large to small I have 27", 700c, 650b, 650c, Raleigh 3 speed 26", 559/26", 451/20", 406/20", 349/16", 305/16". Other sizes of rims are available from Velocity, such as 24", I just don't keep them in stock. So no matter what size wheel you need, I can build you a wheel with a SON hub, and a rear wheel to go with it if needed.

Notice! These prices are subject to change and many are higher than what you see here. I can't keep up with changing prices for many items on the website. So, call or email for an exact price quote.

Dealers please call for wheel pricing: 603 478 0900

Lightweight for Brevets and Ultra-Marathon events

Of course, I also build wheels using the disc versions of the hub, SON28S and SON20S. Prices for the disc versions are higher. See the hub prices below.

Plenty of rim options available, just no time to post prices. Please call for a quote. Some prices may be out of date. Call or email for an exact quote.

I have Velocity Deep V, Mavic D521, F519 X517, Sun CR-18 and Rhyno Light 26" rims in stock.

I also have Mavic Open Pro and CXP33 rims in 650c.

Matching rear wheels can be built with Shimano, Campy, Phil Wood, Rohloff and King hubs.

20" Wheel Prices

These are just a few of the wheel options available. I have a large selection of rims in stock for 700c, 26" ATB, 26" three speed, and 26" road. I can build you a matching rear wheel too with either Campagnolo 9-10 speed hubs, Shimano 8-9-10 speed hubs, and Phil Wood 8-9 speed hubs. I only build with brass spoke nipples. Under no circumstances will I build a wheel with aluminum nipples or straight-pull spokes. I ship wheels all over the world. Within the lower 48 states, shipping a single wheel costs from $10.00 to $18.00 depending on the size of the wheel and your distance from New Hampshire. In addition to a wheel, you will need lights and brackets. See below.

Schmidt hubs, headlights, taillights and parts
Dealers please call for hub and light prices: 603 478 0900
Hubs only
SON20 and SON28
Schmidt SON20 or SON28 hub, 32 or 36 hole	$ 275.00
Schmidt SON20 or SON28 hub, 24, 28, 40, or 48 hole	$ 301.00
Schmidt SON28 hub, black, 32 & 36 hole only	$ 312.00
SON20R
Schmidt SON20R 32 or 36 hole, polished finish	$ 301.00
Schmidt SON20R 20, 24 or 28 hole, polished finish	$ 320.00
Schmidt SON20R 32 or 36 hole, black anodized finish	$ 320.00
Schmidt SON20R 20, 24 or 28 hole, black anodized finish	$ 338.00
SON20XS
SON20XS hub, narrow spacing for Dahon or Brompton folding bikes.	$ 301.00
SONXS100 hub, using narrow XS hub shell but with 100mm axle to reduce weight and drag, 32 hole	$ 301.00
SON20S and SON28S For Disc Brake
Schmidt SON hub for disc brake, 32 or 36 hole Use only on forks with "Lawyer Lips"! If you don't understand this, call me and ask!	$ 330.00
Schmidt SON28 hub for disc brake, 32 or 36 hole, Black Sorry, but the black SON28 is only for larger rim sizes, 26" 650c, 650c, 700c and 27".	$ 367.00
Son XS-M for HP Velotech Scorpion Trike, 36 spokes only, and only offered with black anodized finish. No other drillings are available. Polished aluminum finish is not available. This hub is designed specifically for the Scorpion. It is not suitable for other trikes. If you use another trike and want to use this dynohub, you'll have to have your trike modified to fit the hub. I have no information to offer you regarding how to do the modification. You are entirely responsible for any problems resulting from the use of this hub on a non Scorpion trike that has been modified. I have no information regarding future availability of hubs made for other trikes. Schmidt also makes a hub for the AnthroTech trike. Same price. Same caveats apply. However, the AnthroTech version is made in polished aluminum finish.	$ 514.00
Schmidt Headlights The E6 can be ordered with either the glowing rim or a black rim. The glowing rim is best if you'll be mounting the lights down on your fork. They provide some light to the side and rear for added visibility. But if you're riding a recumbent or if you'll be mounting the E6 on your handlebar, you may find the glowing ring distracting. For you we have the black ring, which only shows light to the front. The Edelux isn't listed here since I don't have the final price yet.
Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 50 CM wire 2.4 watt	$ 118.00
Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 50 CM wire 3 watt	$ 120.00
Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 120 CM wire 2.4 watt	$ 118.00
Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 120 CM wire 3 watt	$ 120.00
Schmidt E6-Z Headlight Secondary 80 CM wire 3 watt	$ 127.00
Schmidt E6-OS Headlight without wire or switch This is strictly for the "do it yourselfer" or for use with sidewall dynamos. 2.4 watt bulb.	$ 108.00
The E6 used to be available with a glowing outer ring. But this was a problem for recumbent riders, who would now have this lighth shining in their eyes. So we added a version without the glowing ring, the current version. After a while, the glowing ring was discontinued, and these are no longer available.
Busch & Müller headlights modified by Schmidt for use with the SON hub
Lumotec Standard lamp, 2.4 watt bulb:	$ 47.50
Lumotec Standard lamp, 3 watt bulb:	$ 49.50
Lumotec Oval Plus lamp, 2.4 watt bulb, includes fork mounting brackets:	$ 86.00
Lumotec Oval Plus lamp, 3 watt bulb, includes fork mounting brackets:	$ 88.00
Taillights for rack mounting
DToplight Series have a super bright LED in the center lens surrounded by a wide reflector.
DToplight Plus, dynamo powered only, Standlight capacitor keeps the light on for several minutes when you stop:	$ 24.50
DToplight Senso Multi, dynamo or battery powered, switches on by itself in the dark:	$ 40.00
DToplight DIWA Plus, dynamo powered only, Standlight capacitor keeps the light on for several minutes when you stop. Must be used with Lumotec Oval DIWA Plus headlight:	$ 67.00
Dtoplight XS Plus (with standlight):	$ 35.00
Dtoplight XS (without standlight):	$ 22.00
Dtoplight XS Permanent (battery powered with 2 position On/Off switch):	$ 35.00
Dtoplight XS Senso (battery powered with 3 position switch, On/Off/Senso):	$ 35.00
4DToplight series have two additional LEDs, one at each side of the reflector for increased visibility to the side.
4DToplight Senso, (battery powered, switches on by itself in the dark):	$ 40.00
4DToplight Senso Multi, (dynamo or battery powered, switches on by itself in the dark):	$ 44.00
4DToplight Permanent, (battery powered only):	$ 29.00
Busch&Müller Switched Headlights B&M makes switched lights for hub dynamos. The switches are not as durable as the stainless steel toggle switches that Schmidt installs in their modified B&M headlights, but they are less expensive. The "N" and DIWA headlights are wired and switched. The wire has two insulated strands, and bare ends. If you'll be using this with a Shimano hub dynamo, you're all set. But to use these with the SON, you'll need some connectors. Be sure to order the connectors when you order the headlight. Any of these B&M headlights can be used along with a Schmidt E6 Secondary headlight if you want even more light.
Busch & Müller Lumotec N with On/Off slider switch for hub dynamo. Halogen Headlight.	$ 26.00
Busch & Müller Lumotec Plus N with On/Off slider switch for hub dynamo. Halogen Headlight with Standlight.	$ 52.00
Busch & Müller DLumotec Oval N with On/Off slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight.	$ 68.50
Busch & Müller DLumotec Oval Plus N with On/Off slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight with Standlight.	$ 76.00
Busch & Müller DLumotec Oval Senso with On/Off/Senso 3 position slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight.	$ 72.00
Busch & Müller DLumotec Oval Plus Senso with On/Off/Senso 3 position slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight with Standlight.	$ 80.00
Busch & Müller DLumotec Topal Senso with On/Off/Senso 3 position slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight.	$ 93.00
Busch & Müller DLumotec Topal Plus Senso with On/Off/Senso 3 position slider switch for hub dynamo. LED Headlight with Standlight.	$ 106.00
Lumotec Oval DIWA Plus lamp, 2.4 watt bulb, includes fork mounting brackets. Must be used with DToplight DIWA Plus taillight:	$ 91.00
Inolight Switched Headlights
Inolight 10+ 1 watt LED headlight with fork crown mount. Can be powered by either dynamo or battery. Either power source can be 6 volt or 12 volt. Battery voltage can even be as high a 18 volts without damage. Wiring included for optional taillight.	$ 113.00
Inolight 20+ 2 watt LED headlight with fork crown mount. Can be powered by either dynamo or battery. Either power source can be 6 volt or 12 volt. Battery voltage can even be as high a 18 volts without damage. Wiring included for optional taillight.	$ 127.00
Accessory mounts for mounting the DToplight and 4DToplight series taillights on racks not equipped with the proper bracket.
Bracket for rack with single center hole	$ 3.25
Bracket for rack with no rear mounting hole	$ 4.50
Bracket for seat post binder bolt	$ 3.25
Taillights for fender mounting
Seculite Plus dynamo powered with Standlight:	$ 30.00
4D Lite Plus dynamo powered with Standlight	$ 36.00
Spanninga SPXb battery powered (2 AAA not included):	$ 26.00
Fender mount taillights can be mounted on a rear cantilever brake with the "Cross" bracket.	$ 4.25
Spare bulbs for headlights I sell:
I only stock bulbs for the headlights I sell!!!!
2.4 watt spare bulb for all headlights; E6, Lumotec and Oval Plus:	$ 4.50
3 watt spare bulb for all headlights; E6, Lumotec and Oval Plus:	$ 5.50
Substitute 3 watt bulb for 2.4 watt bulb in any headlight for use without taillight:	$ 2.00
You must not touch the glass bulb. Only hold the bulb by its metal base. Oil from your skin will cause the bulb to overheat and burn out quickly. To ensure that your bulbs are clean, wipe the glass with alcohol to remove any oils. We never touch the glass bulbs here, and the manufacturer is very careful as well. But you'll be the one riding along with no light when a bulb blows, so play it safe and clean your bulbs when you get them.
Headlight Mounts
Busch&Müller bracket to mount the round Lumotec headlight between fork crown and caliper brake.	$ 1.25
Busch&Müller bracket to mount the round Lumotec headlight at fork crown with cantilever brakes.	$ 1.25
Busch&Müller bracket to mount the Lumotec Oval Plus headlight between fork crown and caliper brake. Included with Oval Plus.	$ 1.25
Busch&Müller bracket to mount the Lumotec Oval Plus headlight at fork crown with cantilever brakes. Included with Oval Plus.	$ 2.75
Custom Handlebar Bracket for mounting Lumotec or Schmidt E6 directly on handlebar or Excess Access bar, or Cronometro "NOB": Tall	$ 15.00
Custom Handlebar Bracket for mounting Lumotec Oval Plus directly on handlebar or Excess Access bar, or Cronometro "NOB": Short	$ 13.00
R&M handlebar bracket (best for direct handlebar mounting)	$ 19.00
Handlebar Accessories
Nitto Lamp Holder 2	$ 65.00
Minoura Space Grip 130mm wide	$ 11.00
Minoura Space Grip 100mm wide	$ 10.00
Cronometro "NOB"	$ 9.00
Quick Release Skewer Sets
Salsa	$ 57.00
See the Pitlock page for a wonderful solution to wheel thievery.
Rear racks that accept Dtoplight Plus taillights without modification.
Tubus Cargo rear rack 700c with bracket for taillight:	$ 121.00
Tubus Cargo rear rack 26" with bracket for taillight:	$ 121.00

 

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Headlights

Check out the great varietry of headlights for use with the SON.

Taillights

For a detailed description of compatible taillights, see my page on taillights.

Mounting Lights

Some folks choose to make their own brackets for mounting the headlight. I have six different brackets available for either fork crown mounting, or handlebar mounting. The Lumotec is shorter than the Lumotec Oval Plus, so I have taller brackets for the Lumotec than for the Lumotec Oval Plus. The E6 works best if mounted on one of my handlebar brackets, either directly on the handlebar, or on the side of the fork. See my page on mounting headlights.

Connecting Dynamo Lights

Most headlights and all taillights use similar connectors. The exceptions are the Supernova headlights and taillights, and the Inoled headlights. The Busch & Müller taillights and headlights use metric spade connectors, male at the light, and female for the wire. The connectors are the 3mm size, not at all common here in the USA, but I stock them by the thousand, and it's very rare that we run out. The connector at the Schmidt SON hub is a male 4.8mm metric spade connector, and all of our headlights can be ordered with the correct female 4.8mm connector already attached.

We have a variety of taillights wires already made with various connectors attached, and we can make any length you want with our heavy duty CoAxial wire, with the appropriate connectors attached and shrink tubing protected.

Be aware that the housings for all of the Busch & Müller headlights are made for both sidewall dynamos and hub dynamos. A sidewall dynamo acts as its own on/off switch, so the headlight doesn't need a switch. The housing will have two pairs of connectors, one pair to connect to the sidewall dynamo, and the other pair to connect to a taillight. When they build the headlight for use with a hub dynamo, they add a switch, and leave all of those external connectors intact. You will use one pair of connectors to run wire to the taillight, but the remaining pair of connectors won't be used, as they also add hard wiring for the hub connection, which is internally routed to the external on/off switch. So when you use a B&M headlight with a hub dynamo, you'll be left with an extra set of connectors. Just remember that this is normal, it's by design, and nothing to worry about. And there's no need to cover up those connectors. Just ignore them. lastly, it makes no difference which pair of connectors you use for the taillight, provided you use one power and one ground, not two power and two ground, obviously. Check for the markings in relief on the headlight housing.

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This page updated: Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
USA
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax